Language
The longtime U.S. presence in the Canal Zone means that English is spoken well by some Panamanians but a substantial minority do not speak it well, including the majority of taxi drivers. As part of the country's drive for more eco-tourism, schools have now prioritized the teaching of English, so this situation is gradually improving.

Currency & Best Way to Get Money
The official currency is the Balboa, but as this is permanently kept exactly on parity with the U.S. currency, dollars are accepted everywhere. There is an ATM in the Super 99 supermarket in the Colon 2000 shopping centre. If you are carrying other currencies, there are exchange bureaus and banks in Colon but it is probably safer to change money your board ship or in other ports. If you have to use a bank, go to the Free Zone area which is right next to Colon 2000 -- you will need your passport and/or cruise card.

Where You're Docked
Right outside the Colon 2000 terminal. If you take an organized tour, you will board your coach in the car park just a few yards from the gangway. Otherwise, you have to walk past the car park perimeter into the terminal and across the overhead walkway to the new shopping centre.

Hanging Around
As some of the goods from the nearby Duty Free Zone are sold within the shops in this purpose-built center for cruise visitors, there are a few bargains to be found especially among electronic goods -- digital cameras seem to be a good buy. There is also a duty-free liquor store. Otherwise, there is nothing much to keep you there.

There's not much more in Colon itself. A taxi ride to anywhere in the city costs $3. The cathedral on Calle/Street 5 (open 2 p.m. - 5:45 p.m.) is an attractive building as is the restored -- in pink and white -- historic Washington Hotel, which has a terrace where you can enjoy a drink or lunch while watching ships waiting to transit the Canal.

Taxis also offer a $30 city tour which is probably the safest way to see Colon.

Watch Out For
Muggings are not unknown -- on this critic's most recent cruise visit, a couple of passengers were robbed within 200 yards of the terminal. Also avoid back streets in Colon (as well as Panama City).

Getting Around
Train service was restored with tourists in mind in 2001 (it was originally intended to carry freight), and runs from Colon to Comzal station near Miraflores Locks.

1950s passenger carriages were later also restored (and air-conditioned) so that early morning commuters into Colon can use the scheduled services. During the rest of the day, the passenger part of the train is chartered by the cruise lines for their organized tours to the locks. It is a worthwhile trip with great views out over Gatun Lake but, sadly, not one you can easily use independently.

There are frequent bus services (journey time is about 90 minutes) from the Albrook bus terminal on Avenida Bolivar, Colon, to Panama City, and one-hour trips to Portobelo, costing $2 and $3 one-way respectively. Otherwise, the only non-tour transport option -- unless you know the country well enough to hire a car (Avis has two offices in Colon) -- are the tourism taxis which are allowed into the port once the tours have departed.

On these, sample 2004 cab prices (for up to four people) are: $120 to Gatun Locks and Portobelo; $120 for an eco-tourism tour which takes in the locks and three forts (Espinar, Lorenzo, and Sherman); $60 to Lagosta Beach (for three hours -- $20 for each extra hour after that); $200 by boat to the scuba-diving centre, Isla Grande; $125 to the Embera Indian village of Alajuela; and $150 to Miraflores Locks and Panama City.

Taxi prices are fixed by the central desk in the Colon 2000 centre. If you book through them, your details are taken so that they know where you are and in which taxi if there is any problem. You can secure lower prices by approaching the drivers directly, but then you lose that safety net.

Best Souvenir
A Panama Hat, of course, although TV's Frasier did once describe his brother (and fellow psychiatrist) Niles as being so short of insight as a child that he missed the connection between being beaten up and wearing a Panama Hat to school.

Don't Miss
 Panama City. It's a long way from being one of the world's major tourist cities but, in these post Noriega days, it is working hard to create a new, visitor-friendly image.

Many tourist developments are happening in and around the city, including some restoration of the old colonial town (Casco Antigua or Casco Viejo) within the city. This was built in 1673 to replace the city sacked two years earlier by pirate Henry Morgan. In the six blocks around the Plaza Central are the impressive President's Palace, city cathedral and the Municipal Palace. Also, the Historical Museum of Panama and the Panama Canal (and railway) Museum (both open Monday to Friday, 8:30 a.m. - 3:30 p.m.).

Worth the trip to Colon alone: The Panama Canal locks. The Gatun Locks are closest to Colon but the Miraflores are even more impressive. The beauty of this canal is that it is so busy, any visit is bound to coincide with at least one ship being pulled through by mechanical mules and being raised (in stages) the 26-meter (84-foot) difference between the level of the Gatun Lake and the oceans either side.

The Canal, which was opened in 1914, reverted to Panamanian control at the end of 1999. The locks have visitor centers with multi-media presentations of the canal's colorful and initially tragic history.

 And you've also got to see: Portobelo City, which was once Panama's wealthiest city when hoards of gold were traded for European goods in its three month-long trading fairs. It even gave its name to one of London's longest-enduring street markets -- Portobelo Road. Frequent attacks by pirates and the British navy (Sir Francis Drake died there and was buried on a nearby island) reduced it to ruins and it never recovered but there is much still to see and enjoy -- from forts to a thriving street market. It is just over 30 miles from Colon.

Best ship-sponsored shore excursions:
A Visit to Gatun Locks & the former Panama Canal Zone, where many Americans lived during the time the U.S. was administrator.  Take a cruise on the Chagres River (and hike in the rainforest).

Lunching
There are a couple of decent restaurants -- Aspinall and Cafe Iguana -- in Colon 2000 but the views and ambience are nothing special and you'd be just as well off on the ship. The Washington Hotel on 2nd Street is another option or the Grand Cafe, with its Arabian cuisine, on 10th Street. But take a taxi there and arrange for one to pick you up outside.

There are good seafood restaurants around Lagosta Beach, and in the old town of Panama City there are a variety of local restaurants also serving seafood cooked in Creole tropical sauce or Ceviche (fish cooked in lemon juice, onions and spices) with Patacones (fried plantain) -- all washed down with an algae shake! Also try Panamanian coffee -- they say it is the world's best (but, then, so do the Colombians, Costa Ricans, Hawaiians...).

Shopping
Apart from Colon 2000, the best shopping area is in the old quarter of Panama City. Watch out for moles and togas -- not underground rodents and Roman wraps, these are (respectively) fabrics/clothing with Indian designs and soap stone designs.

Been There, Done That
Then how about rafting the Chagres River, kayaking along Gatun lake or scuba-diving off Portobelo? These and other adventurous activity trips can be booked through tour operators such as Aventura 2000 (info@colon2000.com) from the tourist information desk in the Colon terminal.

Staying in Touch
There is a line of 10 telephones at the top of the escalator from the cruise terminal en route to the shopping centre. These take collect, credit and phone card calls to North America, but only credit card calls to the rest of the world. The Cable and Wireless office in the shopping centre is supposed to be providing Internet access but this was not in action on a recent visit. There is an Internet cafe about a 10-minute walk from the Comzal station.